The City of Bristol's Garden Wine Gardens: Foot-Stomping Grapes in City Gardens
Every 20 minutes or so, an ageing diesel railway carriage pulls into a spray-painted station. Close by, a law enforcement alarm cuts through the almost continuous traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-draped garden fences as rain clouds form.
This is perhaps the last place you anticipate to find a perfectly formed grape-growing plot. But James Bayliss-Smith has managed to four dozen established plants sagging with round purplish grapes on a sprawling allotment sandwiched between a line of historic homes and a commuter railway just north of the city downtown.
"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or whatever in those bushes," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and keep tending to your vines."
The cameraman, 46, a filmmaker who runs a fermented beverage company, is among several local vintner. He's pulled together a informal group of growers who make vintage from four discreet urban vineyards nestled in private yards and allotments throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the group's messaging chat is named Vineyard Dreams.
City Vineyards Around the Globe
To date, Bayliss-Smith's allotment is the sole location registered in the City Vineyard Network's upcoming global directory, which includes better-known city vineyards such as the 1,800 vines on the slopes of Paris's historic Montmartre area and more than three thousand grapevines with views of and inside the Italian city. The Italian-based non-profit association is at the forefront of a movement reviving city vineyards in traditional winemaking countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including urban centers in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.
"Grape gardens help urban areas remain greener and more diverse. They protect open space from construction by creating long-term, productive agricultural units within cities," says the association's president.
Similar to other vintages, those created in cities are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the vagaries of the weather and the individuals who tend the fruit. "Each vintage represents the beauty, community, landscape and heritage of a city," notes the spokesperson.
Mystery Eastern European Grapes
Back in Bristol, Bayliss-Smith is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant abandoned in his garden by a Polish family. If the precipitation arrives, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the enigmatic Polish variety," he says, as he removes damaged and mouldy berries from the shimmering bunches. "We don't really know what variety they are, but they are certainly disease-resistant. Unlike premium grapes – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and additional renowned European varieties – you don't have to spray them with pesticides ... this could be a unique cultivar that was developed by the Soviets."
Group Efforts Throughout Bristol
Additional participants of the collective are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of autumn rain. On the terrace overlooking the city's shimmering waterfront, where historic trading ships once floated with barrels of vintage from Europe and the Iberian peninsula, one cultivator is collecting her dark berries from about fifty vines. "I adore the smell of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she says, stopping with a basket of grapes resting on her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you open the car windows on vacation."
Grant, 52, who has devoted more than 20 years working for charitable groups in war-torn regions, inadvertently took over the grape garden when she moved back to the UK from Kenya with her family in recent years. She felt an overwhelming duty to maintain the grapevines in the yard of their recently acquired property. "This vineyard has previously survived multiple proprietors," she says. "I deeply appreciate the concept of natural stewardship – of handing this down to future caretakers so they keep cultivating from the soil."
Sloping Gardens and Traditional Production
A short walk away, the remaining cultivators of the collective are hard at work on the steep inclines of the local river valley. Jo Scofield has cultivated over one hundred fifty plants perched on ledges in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the interwoven vineyard. "They can't believe they are viewing grapevine lines in a city street."
Currently, Scofield, 60, is harvesting bunches of dusty purple dark berries from lines of plants arranged along the cliff-side with the help of her child, her family member. Scofield, a documentary producer who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was inspired to cultivate vines after seeing her neighbour's vines. She's discovered that amateurs can produce intriguing, pleasurable natural wine, which can sell for more than seven pounds a glass in the increasing quantity of establishments specialising in low-processing vintages. "It is deeply rewarding that you can actually create good, natural wine," she says. "It's very fashionable, but in reality it's resurrecting an traditional method of producing wine."
"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various natural microorganisms come off the surfaces and enter the juice," says the winemaker, ankle deep in a bucket of small branches, pips and crimson juice. "That's how wines were made traditionally, but commercial producers add preservatives to kill the wild yeast and subsequently add a lab-grown yeast."
Challenging Conditions and Inventive Solutions
A few doors down sprightly retiree another cultivator, who motivated Scofield to plant her vines, has assembled his companions to pick Chardonnay grapes from one hundred vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a Lancashire-born physical education instructor who worked at the local university developed a passion for viticulture on regular visits to France. But it is a difficult task to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the gorge, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the Bristol Channel. "I wanted to produce French-style vintages here, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with amusement. "This variety is slow-maturing and very sensitive to fungal infections."
"My goal was creating Burgundian wines in this environment, which is rather ambitious"
The temperamental Bristol climate is not the only challenge faced by winegrowers. Reeve has had to erect a fence on